This classically-styled claret did not merit an outstanding rating because it lacks sufficient concentration to compete with the estate’s top vintages. However, it offers a dark ruby/plum color, nicely evolved notes of roasted herbs, sweet cherries and currants, and loamy earth, medium-weight, light to moderate tannin, and an elegant style. If it puts on weight over the next few years, it may deserve a slightly higher score. Anticipated maturity: now-2018.

This dark purple-tinged 2004 is presently revealing abundant amounts of spicy new oak, but based on previous vintages, that component should be quickly absorbed (the percentage of new oak utilized has not changed). A deep ruby/purple color is followed by aromas of black cherries, currants, and pain grille, medium body, and a soft finish. This elegant, classic wine would benefit from additional concentration. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018.

The straight-shooting Madame Gasqueton told me that in late August she thought the entire vintage was “lost,” but the beautiful weather in September saved everything. The harvest began on September 29 (Merlot) and finished on October 11 (Cabernet Sauvignon). This 2004 comes across like their 1988. An unusually high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) was blended with 30% Merlot, resulting in a dense ruby/purple-colored, slightly herbaceous Calon-Segur possessing a tapenade/olive characteristic along with plump, rich black cherries, truffles, underbrush, and black currants. Medium to full-bodied with plenty of sweet tannin, excellent purity, and a broad mouthfeel. It will require 3-4 years of cellaring, and should keep for two decades.