The 2019 Mouton Rothschild is the most dramatic of the M?doc first growths, soaring from the glass with aromas of cassis, blackberries and violets mingled with rich aromas of cedar, cigar wrapper, licorice, loamy soil and spices. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and powerful, with huge levels of concentration and an ineffably complete, seamless profile, concluding with a long, resonant finish. Plenty of ripe tannin is hidden by its ample core of fruit, and despite its youthful polish, this will require plenty of bottle age to realize all its potential. This blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot tastes in many respects like the 2016 Mouton's more sun-kissed cousin. Mouton Rothschild has produced a great 2019, and the estate certainly isn't resting on its laurels. Mouton now hosts its very own research-and-development department, with its own experimental winery, and all sorts of projects are underway. In the vineyards, canopy management is being adapted on a site-by-site basis, with higher or lower hedging depending on the soils' hydrological profile; cover crops are increasingly part of the estate's strategy; drainage is being optimized in certain parcels; and a massale selection program, housed in an in-house nursery, has been launched. In the winery, the parcel-by-parcel approach continues; and I'm sure that new head winemaker Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, who did such great work at Clerc Milon, will only bring further refinement and attention to detail to an already meticulous process. This reviewer will certainly be following with interest.

The blend this year is 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, harvested from the 18th of September to the 5th of October. Opaque purple-black colored, the 2019 Mouton Rothschild simply shines, even at this very nascent stage, beaming from the glass with bright, vibrant scents of cr?me de cassis, blueberry preserves, boysenberries and black raspberries plus fragrant suggestions of lilacs, dark chocolate, sandalwood, jasmine tea and woodsmoke with a spicy waft of star anise. The medium-bodied palate shimmers with energy, featuring tightly wound layers of black fruits, exotic spices and mineral notions, framed by exquisitely ripe, fine-grained tannins and bags of freshness, finishing with epic length and perfume. This year's profound expression is without doubt a legend in the making. (For number crunchers, the alcohol is 13.5% this year, slightly lower than 2018, which came in at 13.8%.) “The grand vin has 90% Cabernet Sauvignon this year―among the highest percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon ever used―with less Merlot, just 9% Merlot,” technical director Philippe Dhalluin told me. “The Merlot was very good, maybe the best since 2010, but the Cabernet Sauvignon was just too good. We build the blends of Mouton and Petit Mouton together. This year they are very different styles. Generally, Petit Mouton comes from the border of this plot of excellence we use for the Mouton. But this year is different―more of this good Merlot. The biggest difference in the styles is the tannins, Petit Mouton’s are usually not as refined. The plateau of Carruades gives such an excellent style of tannins to Mouton!” Mouton’s grand vin is unquestionably one of the wine’s of the vintage, but I was surprised by the high quality of the estate’s dry white wine. Usually, great red wine years do not make such impressive whites. “Aile d’Argent for us was such a great surprise this year,” Dhalluin agreed with me. “In the end, the Semillon was such excellent quality. There’s a hint of exotic Muscat character in there. Really, it is an excellent vintage for this wine too―usually, odd vintages produce exceptional characters in Aile d’Argent!”